Myanmar∼ Yangon
Rangoon or Yangon; ex-capital, ex-colony. A city with a sombre history, disrupted present and unknown future, yet in spite of it all so much beauty.
This city never failed to leave me breathless. There was a continual buzz of brimming ambition, hope infused with a seemingly timeless, relaxed, open spirit of a people who appreciate what they have and know what is of importance.
This atmosphere would greet you as you walk the lively streets. Vendors would smile at you, with you, with no intent to just get you to buy their products.
Friends would sit in tea houses chatting and taxi drivers lounged on street corners impervious to the next customer.
Pigeons would perch, weighing down telephone poles and nature grew out of the architecture. Each bus, bought by the driver, became his own property, decorated with jewels, paintings, cuddly toys and LEDs.
Modern Yangon has its roots deeply entrenched in years of colonial rule by the British. Britain turned up in the 1880s with loads of boats, completely destroyed the environment, government, economy and culture and imposed their own way of life; like tea and forcing children to learn English. Great (so funny how we don’t get taught this in school).
Over many decades Burma was consequently shaped by British imperial culture. It was due to this, that I felt so peculiarly at home, walking down what I can only describe as, a semi-version of London, in the middle of South-East Asia.
The mix of cultures is palpable: the Burmese provide a canvas for a beautiful tapestry of ways of life from all neighbouring countries; Chinese dumplings, Indian curry and Thai iced-tea all converging to greet traditional mohynga, eejagoi and tea-leaf salad.
Traditional longyi (floor-length dress) is worn by both men and women. Teeth are stained red from years of eating betel nuts (a caffeinated nut which constitutes their form of Western coffee).
Other unique Burmese traditions still remain. These were retained in part as the country was kept away from mass tourism due to the military junta-controlled government.
Many locals I spoke to, however, said their standard of life was beginning to improve since the country gradually opened up to foreign influence. This prosperity was short-lived unfortunately as the barely democratic state fell under the military Junta again in 2021 (see bottom of page).
Despite this, I hold on to the hope that Yangon and all of Myanmar, will emerge from the tyranny with a people who can one day finally enjoy their long-overdue and well-deserved freedom.
With that, here are a few of my most special moments in this unique city…
☮ Many moments of peaceful solitude in Maha Bandula Park and by the waterfront of the Yangon River
✝ Just absorbing the atmosphere on the streets - the British constructed the city with a grid plan, so is easy to know your way. I would often venture in the early morning to find breakfast from the street stalls
🕉 Visiting Inya lake, 19th Street, and riding the Circular train which gives you a 3-hour ride around the whole city for like 50p
☪ Observing all major religions co-existing, with Buddhist monks walking down the street past a Hindu temples, an Islamic mosque on the next alley and a synagogue on the next!
☸ Taking a breather in the street and a lovely girl selling veg ushering me over to sit and chill with her + a lovely street vendor giving me a hello kitty brooch 😂 and flowers for my hair :)
✡ Clubbing in the ‘safe house’ - an underground club in the parking lot of a 5-star hotel
☮ Being helped by a very kind man when finding myself highly confused in a photoshop (he spent half an hour using his phone to help me!)
☪ Bogyoke Aung San Market and Junction City (Tony Tun beauty was my haven for a bit of TLC after all the bed bugs in Thabarwa) + if you want tattoos or piercings go to BOOM
✝ Staying at the Lodge, the Sanctuary Hotel and Shannkalay Hostel
☸ Lovely meals out with friends from Thabarwa at the very ‘cater for the Westerner pallete’: Ô'Thentic Brasserie
🕉 Rainy season - noticing how all city dwellers whipped out umbrellas, closed up shop and kids ran onto the balconies to play. A well-rehearsed routine of embracing the seasons.
Myanmar is suffering immensely at the moment. Here is an example of how a donation can go such a long way…
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